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Men Trends Spring Summer 2015: Whitewash
White is by far the biggest colour statement of the season. Whitewashed suits, shorts and sportswear make a big impact in the Spring Summer 2015 collection. Hoodies, parkas and slouchy trousers all look better in white, or so it seems.
The catwalks in Milan, London and Paris united into one to create a new, uniform style for the modern man. Gone are the days of the suit: welcome the age of casual- in essence the new uniform.
There is one obvious departure and one obvious return to the catwalks in the Spring Summer 2015 season: gone are the days of the suit and back are the days of denim. Now that we’ve summed up the season in two neat bundles, lets move onto the interesting grey area in between. As yes, tailoring seems to have been forgotten and denim has enjoyed a resurgence (which has been a few seasons in the making- lets say that we saw it coming). What is the most interesting factor of the season, however, one that has been picked up by the press worldwide seems to be the intent of designers to concentrate less on trends and more on lifestyle. And this is the crux of the season. It seems that gimmicky fashion statements have given way to considerations about how men live their lives, with fashion that caters to their needs, and not to the need of fashion. While tailoring is essential, no one wants to deny that, it seems to have been relegated to presentations or heightened to made to measure, and pret a porter fashion is much more simply about fashion. Casual wear, sports wear, whatever you may wish to call it, dominated the catwalks with denim, technical fabrics and casual silhouettes linking Milan, Paris and London into a new aesthetic for the contemporary man.
The emerging designers at the London Collections went all out with redefining menswear, looking at silhouettes and fabrics in a different way, forging new combinations and thrusting previously obscure designer names into the limelight. But isn’t that the strength of the London Collections? Paris and Milan also stayed close to their roots with a mixture of traditional or heritage referencing and modern consumer wear. From Hedi Slimane’s military inspiration at Dior, to Gucci’s nautical theme and Dolce&Gabbana’s toreros to Dries van Noten’s sateen clad warriors.
Innovation comes in terms of fabric, with technical materials popping up in the most unexpected places. Outerwear and shorts dominate the collections, with hybrid long blazers-come-summer coats being the protagonists. Parkas and bomber jackets hold their own on the runways too, as they have for a number of seasons now. In terms of accessories the sneaker is the king of the catwalks, worn with shorts, and even with the few suits we have seen.
The colour palette is in no way uniform, with most colours of the rainbow appearing in London, Milan and Paris. Important: they are worn as all over hues, from tailoring to casual ensembles.
White and neutrals form the vast majority of colour coordination on the runways, with brash, multi-coloured prints tying in the colour chart which characterises the season.
So this season we have learned that men like to wear casual clothes, not to be forced into suits, unless it’s strictly necessary. Men like to wear outerwear, from blazers come parkas to bombers, they are not bothered about colours, they need to have the option of wearing the colour they most like that season, or even day, and prints are always a fail safe option. Sneakers and denim are must haves and the snazzier the fabric, especially if of technical origin the better. Sounds pretty much like the truth to me.
In collaboration with Massimo Di Felice
Fotografie di Madison McGraw